Italian Art in a Nutshell

Once upon a time I was an Art History major - before I got practical and switched to Medieval History.  Maybe that's why I look forward to Kris Killen Olberding's regular posts on her Facebook page. She, too, was once upon a time an Art History Major, is very smart and has excellent taste.  Recently I asked if she might write something specifically about Italian artists and she was kind enough to share her favorite painting.

Conversion on the Way to Damascus

 

For my friends at School Amici 

"Conversion on the Way to Damascus," 1601, by Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio. One of the most brilliant painters of the early Italian Baroque period, Caravaggio was born in Lombardy and later moved to Rome, where he soon became celebrated for his vigorous and highly theatrical style, which brought a revolutionary humanity to his religious subject matter. He is credited with creating Tenebrism (from the Italian “tenebroso” meaning dark or gloomy), a technique which emphasizes violent contrasts of light and dark, with the dominant darkness accentuated by piercing illumination. Further cementing his rock star status, Caravaggio was also known for his swaggering personal life. The infamous painter was jailed several times, involved in many brawls, accused of killing a man in a sword fight, and had a death warrant issued against him by the Pope, forcing him to flee to southern Italy. While in exile, he died mysteriously of a fever at the age of 38, still hoping for a pardon. This painting resides in Rome at the church of Santa Maria del Popolo.

A Stroll in Italy!

by Paola Girelli Harding    

When asked to participate in a ‘working experience’ in Italy in November, I jumped at the opportunity to join a supplier on a fabulous Italian journey starting in Rome, and including Torgiano (Umbria), Lake Como (Lombardy), Verona and Mira (Veneto).  The whirlwind week ended just in Mira/Venice, a stone’s throw from Verona, where I would stay for another week. 

      While the visits and the accommodations in the cities and towns on the work, and the inspection part of the trip were breathtakingly unforgettable, my Verona and Veneto experience was unparalleled.

In front of Ponte dei Sospiri (Venice)

      Boarding the train in Mestre bound for Verona on a sunshine morning was especially delightful since two days earlier we experienced a downpour in Verona as had not occurred in decades.  Gazing on hills and planes covered with vineyards, I planned my ‘foodies’ visit putting the pastry shop Cordioli (very near the Hotel Accademia) at the top of the list.

      Visiting Venice was magical, sunny, mild, and I almost forfeited the trip to Padova as a high tide had been predicted!  We crossed the Grand Canal to Rialto Market by Traghetto, available in several areas along the canal between the three bridges spanning it, for just 1,50 euro, great!  We went to the top of St. Mark’s bell tower for a bird’s-eye view of the city and lagoon.  I treated myself at Café Florian, a break at Do Colonne with polenta e bacala mantecato and a spritz sitting outdoors!  Departing late afternoon, the sun setting all rosy on the lagoon, what an arrivederci alla prossima volta! 

In the Lessini Mountains (north of Verona)

      I had not visited Spiazzi in the Lessini Mountains, Madonna della Corona/Crowned Madonna, for years, where I spent  summer camps as a child.  The church perched on the rocks, almost floating above the Valdadige below as breathtakingly beautiful as I remembered!

      Sirmione and Torri del Benaco, on Lake Garda, Borghetto sul Mincio, were my favorite stops!  They were quieter (with many stores and hotels closed for the season).  Of course I could not have visited these places without my cousin Stefania who kindly offered her time and her car to allow for memorable stays.

      Autumn in Italy was definitely as great an experience as expected, I enjoyed persimmons both on the trees and savored them daily.  Roasting chestnuts permeated the air.  The trees changed colors, to reds and yellows, and although I prefer warm weather, I would recommend an autumn stroll like this one to anyone. My next cool weather trip is planned for Carnevale di Venezia in 2014!!! 
Would anyone like to join me?

Paola Girelli Harding is an Italian travel planner specialist.