The Game of Cheap

A few months after I fell in love with Michele I decided to quit my job.  My timing was based on two important factors:  My "fidanzato" was a night person and I could not show up for normal American business hours with a clear head.   But more importantly I'd met someone who could teach me how to be happy without spending a lot of money, an area in which Southern Italians have a great deal of expertise.

Last summer we toured the most famous spots around Cinque Terre on the Italian Riviera, an area that attracts tourists from all over the world.  We were staying at a friend's house in Camogli and could use the kitchen, but every day we'd take the train to yet another charming town by the sea:  Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure, or Riomaggiore at the end of the Cinque Terre walking path.  That's when we adapted The Game of Cheap (which is the normal way we live) to find the best places to eat.

The Rules

1.  Great food.
2.  Charming location. 
3.  A ridiculously low price.  
4.  Table service.
5.  Preferably with a tablecloth.

After a little bit of practice, we got to be pretty good at spotting bargains at lunchtime. The secret was to get away from the sea and off the main streets.  Normally these places aren't the ones with outdoor seating on the piazza.  The common denominator of our best "finds" was a hand-lettered sign with very little English.

The fancy menu at the top was in Santa Margherita, known for its handmade lace and a harbor full of yachts.  This restaurant offered a meat choice for 13 Euro (about $18) or a fish choice for 17 Euro.  That included the primo (pasta course), secondo (meat or fish with vegetable side dish), water, wine, and coffee.  The food was fantastic.  We had to wait for a table and nobody spoke English.  Even though we were stuffed afterward, we couldn't resist dessert from an incredible bakery down the street with the most beautiful display window we'd ever seen..

The second menu was in Genova, Christopher Columbus' hometown.  In the middle of the maze of alleys in the oldest part of of the city we found this gem for 10 Euros each, all inclusive:  3 choices for primo, 3 choices for secondo, wine and water.  Once again, the food was amazing and we were the only tourists there.

Of course, pizza is always a good alternative for a lost-cost meal.  But most pizzerias don't fire up the oven until they open for dinner in the evening.  If you're scouting around at lunch, make sure you find a place like this restaurant where the pizzeria is "aperta anche a mezzogiorno" (also open at noon).

Outstanding food is not difficult to find in a country known for excellent cuisine.  But the sport lies in the ability to ferret out memorable culinary experiences without wincing when you open the Visa bill after you arrive home.  Once you get the hang of it, it's hard to lose in The Game of Cheap.