by Marty Piazza
In America we have wine publications like the Wine Spectator and The Wine Advocate which, among other activities, rate various wines from around the world. Great ratings from these publications can significantly increase American demand for the wines winning the highest praise. In Italy they have Gambero Rosso, which is similar to our Wine Spectator. Every year this organization ranks hundreds of Italian wines, with the best (according to these judges, at least) receiving one, two, or three “glasses.” The most prestigious rating is the coveted “Tre Bicchieri” (Three Glasses). The majority of the wines winning Tre Bicchieri can be quite expensive. But every now and then an inexpensive wines show up on the list, and these are the ones that really capture my attention. The wine we will look at today is one of these: Vermentino di Gallura 2009 Thilibas from Cantina Pedres in Sardegna.
The grape Vermentino is grown predominantly in Sardegna and Liguria, with a little spilling over into Tuscany. The appellation Vermentino di Gallura is the only DOCG appellation in all of Sardegna, and the whites from this zone are some of the most enjoyable of Italy. Our wine from Cantina Pedres is 100% Vermentino, made in stainless steel (sees no oak), has a golden yellow color, medium body, and dry but fruity flavors of tangy apple, nectarine, herb, and mineral. The acidity and tartness make it a great food wine, particularly with scallops and other sea food.
We are lucky to be able to get this wine in Ohio, because the importer, who lives in Sandusky Ohio, is married to one of the owners in Sardegna. They are a wonderful couple, and they do welcome visitors to their winery, if you should one day find youself in Sardegna. At $16.99/bottle, I think it is one of the most enjoyable wines you will ever discover at anywhere near the price. And yes, I do think it merits a “Tre Bicchieri” rating.
Enjoy. Marty.
Wine of the Month is written by Marty Piazza, the regional expert on Italian wines at Piazza Discepoli. Marty leads the discussion for School Amici's popular Salute! class and tasting, which will be offered again in May.
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