Wine of the Month: Cantina Pedres

 by Marty Piazza

     In America we have wine publications like the Wine Spectator and The Wine Advocate which, among other activities, rate various wines from around the world.  Great ratings from these publications can significantly increase American demand for the wines winning the highest praise.  In Italy they have Gambero Rosso, which is similar to our Wine Spectator.  Every year this organization ranks hundreds of Italian wines, with the best (according to these judges, at least) receiving one, two, or three “glasses.”  The most prestigious rating is the coveted “Tre Bicchieri” (Three Glasses).  The majority of the wines winning Tre Bicchieri can be quite expensive.  But every now and then an inexpensive wines show up on the list, and these are the ones that really capture my attention.  The wine we will look at today is one of these: Vermentino di Gallura 2009 Thilibas from Cantina Pedres in Sardegna.

     The grape Vermentino is grown predominantly in Sardegna and Liguria, with a little spilling over into Tuscany.  The appellation Vermentino di Gallura is the only DOCG appellation in all of Sardegna, and the whites from this zone are some of the most enjoyable of Italy.  Our wine from Cantina Pedres is 100% Vermentino, made in stainless steel (sees no oak), has a golden yellow color, medium body, and dry but fruity flavors of tangy apple, nectarine, herb, and mineral.  The acidity and tartness make it a great food wine, particularly with scallops and other sea food.   

     We are lucky to be able to get this wine in Ohio, because the importer, who lives in Sandusky Ohio, is married to one of the owners in Sardegna.  They are a wonderful couple, and they do welcome visitors to their winery, if you should one day find youself in Sardegna.  At $16.99/bottle, I think it is one of the most enjoyable wines you will ever discover at anywhere near the price.  And yes, I do think it merits a “Tre Bicchieri” rating.  

Enjoy.  Marty.

Wine of the Month is written by Marty Piazza, the regional expert on Italian wines at Piazza Discepoli.  Marty leads the discussion for School Amici's popular Salute! class and tasting, which will be offered again in May.

Italian Wine of the Month by Marty Piazza

The Wines of Le Marche

One of the most beautiful regions of Italy is Le Marche. Located to the east of Umbria, it is as beautiful as Tuscany but with fewer tourists and lower prices. These lower prices also apply to the wonderful wines of this little known region.

The whites are produced from the grapes Verdicchio, Pecorino, Passarina, and Trebbiano, and they are most appreciated for their refreshing simplicity. The reds are dominated by the two grapes San Giovese and Montepulciano (which has nothing to do with the Tuscan town of the same name). The blends of these two grapes vary by name around the region, but the most famous and impressive is known as Rosso Piceno. This is a Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) wine that comes from the southeastern half of the region with the blending requirements of 35%-70% Montepulciano, 30%-50% San Giovese, and up to 15% of other local red varietals.  The word Piceno must come from the town of Ascoli Piceno, which is the capital of the province, my favorite in all of Italy. And Rosso, of course, means “red”.

Tenuto Rio Maggio

One of the most enjoyable winery visits I made in Italy last month was to the property of Simone and Tiziana Santucci that is named Tenute Rio Maggio. What gracious hosts they were, and we spent a few hours together trying their wines and touring the estate. In true Italian fashion a few of their local friends stopped by to join us, and the conversation widened to life in general.

Rio Maggio is located in the new province of Fermo, north of Ascoli Piceno but still within the DOC. They make many fine wines, but only two are available in Ohio: a white blend called Telusiano, and their very special Rosso Piceno Vigneto Contrada Vallone. It is the 2007 of this red that I am recommending to you. It is a blend of 70% Montepulciano and 30% San Giovese from the Contrada Vallone vineyard. Relatively low in acidity by Italian standards, this is a soft rich red with deep notes of dark cherry and a long finish. It pairs well with most Italian meats and tomato based pasta sauces, and is particularly good with rabbit, a local specialty. And all of this for around $20 a bottle. Enjoy!


Marty Piazza is recognized as one of the foremost experts on Italian wines in southwestern Ohio.  Last spring he captivated a sold-out crowd at School Amici's Salute! class, a three-part series on Italian wine at the Mercantile Library.  Feel free to call on Marty's expertise anytime through-out the year at Piazza Discepoli, the Madiera location.